February 13, 2011

Intense white chocolate & maracuya truffles

I’m not particularly fond of white chocolate, I find it too sweet for my taste with a dense almost sticky mouth-feel. So, I never used white chocolate for any desserts until I tried it matched with more sour flavours…The first time was at a restaurant where we’d make toasted almond and lemon rind tempered white chocolate petit fours. They still tasted fairly sweet, but the flavour of the lemon rind matched with the crunchy toasted almond was really nice. Later on, I began working with a fantastic swedish chef who introduced me to this match made in heaven: white chocolate and maracuya! He’d make this dense square truffles coated with green pistachio and though I never got the recipe, I always kept that delicious combination in mind!
I’m not much of a sweet tooth, so it’s only taken me over 3 years to try to re-create those truffles, though I wanted to make them enhancing the sourness of the maracuya to counteract on the overly sweet white chocolate. Also, I wanted to make these softer, more melt in your mouth…After a few tries at work, I got it just how I wanted it! This ganache is beautiffffuuuul!!!!(why did it take me 3 years?!) Everyone in class, we are 18, has loved them. It is fairly simple, though the only tricky part is that since white chocolate is so fussy and there’s almost 3 times more chocolate than “liquid”, when usually dark chocolate ganache for truffles is 1:1, you have to be careful on the order ingredients are added to each other to get a smooth emulsion rather than a seized mess! (which can be fixed, but the texture might suffer).
I wanted to coat these in a thin dark chocolate layer, but I was too lazy to temper such a small amount of chocolate so as coatings I’ve used chopped pistacchio (that’s how this chef served them) dried grated coconut (next time I’ll toast it to see how the flavour matches) and cocoa, which honestly I think it’s how I like it best, though it doesn’t look as appealing. But if you think of other coating you may like, go ahead. I wanted to try finely grated (through microplane or such) macadamia nuts, liophilised  raspberry mixed with some icing sugar, as it’s fairly sour, but had run out so…for the next time! I hope you like them (you will if you like maracuya!)…or adapt them to your favourite fruit puree: like raspberry or pineapple with lime rind, sanguine orange, apricot, lemon & verbena etc.

White chocolate & maracuya truffles
(enough for about 40-50 truffles)

60g  maracuya juice
30g cream, 35% fat
10g sugar
325g of white chocolate
20g unsalted butter
+ whatever you are going to use to coat them: not toasted pistachio, grated coconut, cocoa powder…
If you are going to use pistachios, but they aren’t double-peeled, which is what happened to me, cover them with boiling water to blanch them and let them soak about 10 minutes or more to soften the skin and make peeling easier (or rather, make it possible!)
See how easy it comes out and how beautifully green they are inside! Do not buy toasted ones, as they’ve lost the colour!
And here they are…
I prefer to let them dry a bit, either overnight spread out in a tray or in a very low oven to remove excess humidity to then chop them up.
For the ganache, although the amount of time from the moment it’s prepared to when the truffles are shaped can be shortened to under one hour by forcing it to cool faster. I recommend that you plan ahead and prepared them the day before, so that they set slowly over at least 12 hours. As Harold McGee notes, this is done so that the cocoa fat forms more stable crystals rather so that they melt slower in the mouth and don’t have a greasy feel.
I’ve tried many ways to do this part…boiling the liquid ingredients and placing over the chopped chocolate, melting the chocolate on it’s own and adding the liquid ingredients after dissolving the sugar, the other way around and I find, the following is the easiest & cleanest…
Put together in a bowl over a bain marie the reduced juice, the cream and the sugar and heat slowly until the sugar is completely dissolved.
Add the chocolate (if it is not in small chips, chop it up finely) and don’t stop swirling to incorporate it. You can do this with a spatula, but towards the end, it’s best to use a wire whisk to emulsify the chocolate well, to avoid it seizing and making sure it’s really smooth.
Remove from the heat and add the butter, also in small pieces, whisking it in to make an emulsion.
Another way that gives good results is to melt the chocolate slowly over a pan of boiling water or in the microwave (though this method needs a bit more looking after to avoid overheating & thus burning the delicate chocolate). Then, whisk in the liquids (best warmed up) with the sugar dissolved in them and last add the chopped up butter whisking further to emulsify.
When it’s smooth, pour onto a swallow dish or bowl and cover with cling film directly in contact with the ganache, so no skin forms.
Leave to cool & set at room temperature overnight or until completely set. Then, you can refrigerate it until ready to shape the truffles.
Prepare your coatings…
And get your ganache out…Ready? If you wanted them square, you could place the ready made ganache in a mould covered with cling film to unmold easily.
With a small spoon, take pieces of ganache the size you want and with your hands round them up. If you find it sticks a bit, grease your hands with a bit of a neutral oil that will give the truffles no flavour.
Place them on your coatings and cover them completely before they dry a bit on the outside.
And that’s it! Enjoy!!! or keep well covered in an airtight container in the fridge or freeze them and take them as you need them!
You’ll see how they just melt in your mouth to release all that intense but refreshing flavour!


Ajonjoli said...

oooooooh..... me has dejado impresionada con tus conocimientos truferiles, eres una maestra!!!!!
La verdad que me has dado una idea....qué tal estarán con mango??

Miriam said...

Qué estupenda receta, Eva! Me ha gustado mucho. Pero yo no he visto en mi vida pistachos sin tostar... yo creo que todos los que se suelen encontrar vienen tostados, no? Y saladísimos, por cierto.

Colette said...

Ajonjoli! Buenas! con mango seguro que estan buenos, pero como es más dulce, yo le añadiría algún toque acido, como lima (como tu rica mermelada!!;) ) sino, si no quieres trastear o alterar el sabor, al menos quitar el azúcar de la receta!Si pruebas, ya me contarás...a lo mejor quitar la nata y sustituirla por más zumo!Un beso

Colette said...

Miriam! Lo de los pistachos es COMPLICADO, es verdad, es una pena de qué manera se los cargan tostándolos en exceso y salandolos aún más. Te dejo la dirección de donde yo compro todos los frutos secos. Tienen de todo y más y sino te lo buscan. Se llama Sucesores de Ignacio López, S.L. (www.sucesoresdeignaciolopez.com) y tienen una tienda en Avda. Menendaz Pelayo, 63. Teléfono: 915570902. Y noooo, no me llevo ninguna comisión, pero es el único sitio donde encuentro de todo! Pecanas, lino, frutas deshidratadas, especies como pimienta rosa, avellanas cruda o tostada, chufas etc. Así que vale la pena darse el paseo. El pistacho que compré era el crudo pelado (bolsa de 250g) porque el que llaman "repelado" lo venden en bolsa de 1kg...pero es una maravilla!
Espero que te valga la info.

Y aprovecho para decir, que se me olvidó comentarlo, que el zumo de maracuya, es como el del curd, de la marca Les Vergers Boiron, que es tan bueno como el natural, pero sin pepitas ni na!!Un beso

Anonymous said...

Bueno, os envío maracujás baratos desde Brasil, ;P pero lo de los buenos pistachos es complicados...aunque no queden tan bonitos, usaría otras frutos secos mas faciles aquí como anacardos o cacahuetes...

Colette said...

En serio que envías?

lo de los pistachos es sólo una opción, sí bonita, pero de hecho a mí me gustan más simplemente con el contraste del cacao amargo. Como fruto seco, uno que combine con el maracuya o que sea más bien neutro...se me ocurre el "coquito" (como se llamaba allí?) rallado con tu super microplane. Incluso el chocolate negro rallado, aunque con el calor que hace allí, se funde en tu mano, no sólo en tu boca!!;) y bueno, coco no te faltará!

A A. quizás le guste probarlas para ofrecer en el resto, porque congeladas, se conservan genial en bolsitas (como las croquetas) para que no cojan olores, y en nada se atemperan. Beijos

Anonymous said...

esto quiero probaarrrrlooo!!!!

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